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Practical guide · Flooring

How do I fit laminate flooring: acclimatising, subfloor checks, underlay, expansion gaps, staggering joints, cutting and clicking panels, following a manufacturer's installation guide

Click-together laminate is one of the most common DIY floors, but most problems, from gaps and raised edges to creaking, come from skipped preparation rather than from the clicking itself. This guide follows the current installation guide published by the laminate brand Quick-Step. Other brands have similar rules but their own figures, so always read the instructions in your boxes.

Practical guide · Updated 2 November 2026

The essentials in 30 seconds

Acclimatise the unopened boxes flat in the room for 48 hours before fitting, at 15–25 °C and 30–85% relative humidity, as Quick-Step's guide says. The subfloor must be solid, flat, clean and permanently dry: Quick-Step allows no more than 4 mm of unevenness over 2 m and 1 mm over 20 cm. Lay the underlay in the same direction as the panels, taping the seams to keep the vapour barrier intact. Keep an expansion gap of 1 mm per metre of floor width, at least 8 mm, all round the room and around pipes and fixed objects. Make the first and last rows at least 5 cm wide, keep end pieces longer than 20 cm, and stagger end joints by at least 30 cm. Take the spacers out within 24 hours, fix skirting to the wall, never to the floor, and never fix down a floating floor.

  • Don't fit kitchen units, built-in wardrobes or other fixed heavy items on top of a floating floor.
  • Your brand's figures win: read the leaflet in the box.
01 / Before you start

Acclimatise and check the subfloor

  1. 01

    Acclimatise

    Unopened boxes, stored flat, in the room or one with the same conditions, 48 hours before, during and until 24 hours after fitting, at 15–25 °C and 30–85% RH.

  2. 02

    Finish wet work first

    Plastering and other work that changes the humidity must be finished and dry.

  3. 03

    Check the panels

    Codes, damage and appearance in good light. Keep a box label, the receipt and a photo of the codes on the back of one panel.

  4. 04

    Remove soft coverings

    Take up carpet, needle felt and other damp-porous coverings; hard vinyl or linoleum without foam can stay.

  5. 05

    Check moisture

    For cement screed Quick-Step gives below 2.5 CM% (75% RH) unheated and below 1.5 CM% heated; for wood-based subfloors below 10% moisture content.

  6. 06

    Check flatness

    No more than 4 mm under a 2 m straightedge and 1 mm under 20 cm; sand high spots or use a smoothing compound.

Tools Quick-Step lists
Tool Use
Ruler, pencil, square, string or chalk line Measuring and marking reference lines
Saw Cutting panels; test on an offcut to see which way up gives a clean cut
Tapping block, pull bar, hammer Closing joints without damaging the edges
Spacers Keeping the expansion gap at the walls
Dust mask, safety gloves, goggles Protection when cutting
02 / Planning

Measure and plan the rows

Divide the width of the room by the width of a panel to see how many full rows you need, and adjust so that the first and last rows are at least 5 cm wide. Mark reference points on the wall for your first full row. Mix panels from several boxes to avoid identical patterns side by side. Buy a few spare panels: Quick-Step recommends keeping some for later repairs.

03 / Expansion gaps

Leave room for the floor to move

Expansion rules in Quick-Step's guide
Situation Rule
Floating floor up to 13 × 13 m Gap of 1 mm per metre of floor width, minimum 8 mm
Very dry climates Gap can be reduced to 5 mm
Very humid climates Gap should be 10 mm
Around pipes and fixed objects Gap needed all round
Doorways, L/U/T-shaped rooms, separate heating zones, over 13 m Intermediate T-profile, with a gap either side (exceptions by country and panel type)
Door frames Must not pin the floor; undercut them

Don't fill expansion gaps with sealant or silicone. Quick-Step only allows its own foam strip and sealing kit, which it requires in wet areas.

04 / Step by step

How to lay laminate flooring

  1. 01

    Choose the direction

    Decide which way the panels will run.

  2. 02

    Underlay

    Roll it out in the same direction as the panels, one width at a time as you go, taping the joins.

  3. 03

    Start away from the wall

    Lay rows 2 and 3 first, aligned to your reference marks, because walls are rarely straight. Lock every panel on both the short and long side before adding the next.

  4. 04

    Click the panels

    Angle the panel at about 20–30° into the one already laid and lower it, or close joints with a tapping block; use the pull bar and hammer at the wall end.

  5. 05

    Stagger the joints

    End joints in neighbouring rows are never in line, at least 30 cm apart; each row's first and last piece over 20 cm.

  6. 06

    Fit the wall row

    For row 1 against the wall, saw off the click profile and scribe the panel to the shape of the wall, with spacers for the gap.

  7. 07

    Finish the floor

    Complete the remaining rows the same way, checking every joint.

  8. 08

    Remove spacers and fit skirting

    Spacers out within 24 hours; skirting fixed to the wall, never to the floor.

05 / Cutting

How do you cut laminate flooring?

Depending on the saw and blade, the decorative top layer must face up or down for a clean cut: Quick-Step suggests testing on an offcut first. Wear a dust mask, gloves and goggles. For the last row and pieces around obstacles, measure, mark and cut, leaving the expansion gap behind the spacer.

06 / Common mistakes

What causes gaps and raised edges

  • Skipping acclimatisation or fitting outside 15–25 °C and 30–85% RH.
  • A damp or uneven subfloor, or no vapour barrier on a mineral subfloor.
  • Expansion gaps that are too small, filled, or blocked by a door frame.
  • Kitchen units, wardrobes or heavy fixed objects placed on the floating floor.
  • Nailing, screwing or gluing the floor or the skirting to it.

Quick-Step notes that joints may open during the heating season or with large, fast swings in humidity.

FAQ

Fitting laminate flooring: FAQs

How long should laminate acclimatise before fitting?

Quick-Step's guide says 48 hours, in unopened boxes, at 15–25 °C and 30–85% relative humidity.

How big should the expansion gap be?

1 mm per metre of floor width, at least 8 mm, in Quick-Step's 2026 guide; check your own brand's figure.

How far apart should laminate joints be staggered?

At least 30 cm between end joints in neighbouring rows, with no piece shorter than 20 cm at the row ends.

Do I need underlay for laminate?

Yes. Quick-Step requires its underlay, with a vapour barrier on mineral subfloors such as concrete, taped at the seams.

Can I fit kitchen units on top of laminate?

Not on a floating floor: Quick-Step says never to fix, block or permanently load it.

Sources and method

Sources

Manufacturer installation guide, checked on 2 November 2026 (02/11/2026).

  • Quick-Step · Installation guide: laminate flooring, version 07.2026 (PDF) ↗Conditions 15–25 °C and 30–85% RH, 48 hours before to 24 hours after; unsuitable areas; floating floor never fixed or loaded; subfloor moisture and flatness (4 mm over 2 m, 1 mm over 20 cm); floor heating two weeks before; underlay with taped vapour barrier; tools and protective equipment; first and last row at least 5 cm, end pieces over 20 cm, 30 cm stagger; expansion gap 1 mm/m, minimum 8 mm, 5 or 10 mm by climate; T-profiles; spacers out within 24 hours; skirting to the wall; gaps not filled. PDF read.

Uneven or damp subfloor?

Sort the subfloor out before fitting: sanding, levelling compound or a damp-proof solution. If in doubt, ask a flooring fitter.

Choosing laminate flooring ↗